30 August 2006

An Empty Flight and the 'Asian Squatter'

The day kicked off with a lovely stay in the Melbourne International Airport. The introduction to Japanese culture begins with the first voiceovers during the safety briefing: they are officially bilingual as soon as you get on board. The dinner menu was bilingual, there were Japanese attendants, and the food had Japanese options: green tea hot or cold, oolong tea, fish (not sashimi), etc., etc.

The bird was a 767-300 and it was nearly empty. A wonderful way to spend a long flight, though Qantas couldn't have been happy. The flight was 10.5 hours and we landed at Narita airport in Tokyo. About 3 hours into the flight we overflew Osprey Reef, which for those of you with a detailed memory, may recall that I did some diving there in March. I'd kinda wondered what it looked like from the air, as pilots do. It looks thus:

The connecting flight wasn't until the next morning, so the airline pays for your night in a company hotel. Japanese T.V. is very interesting... at least I think it's interesting. They showed a lot of Charlie Chaplin films, which was really cool because I've never seen Charlie Chaplin before. They are nuts about baseball, but that is not a post-WWII event - it's been around long before that.

The next day dawned rainy, but I was in Tokyo, so I didn't really notice. The flight to Sapporo went out from Haneda airport, which is dominantly for domestic traffic. The only troublesome part is that there is a 90 minute bus ride separating the two. For good reason I suppose. Even though Haneda handles dominantly domestic traffic, it classes as one of the busiest ariports in the world. I'd hate to have too many proximity conflicts with Narita, which probably also classes with the busiest airports in the world.

First impressions of Japan were that everything is very ordered. There were 6 different rubbish bins in the airport - combustibles, PET bottles, cans, glass bottles, papers, miscellaneous plastic. Vending machines are everywhere, but almost exclusively sell drinks. There seems to be very little impulsive snacking in Japan. Apparently there is a legend of Japanese vending machines selling everything, including used women's underwear. That wasn't my experience, but then, I don't think it would ever be my experience... English is spoken in the airport, but only enough to function, not for conversation. One gets the idea what it is like to be illiterate. Pilots! It should here be noted that Japanese airports rarely see the touch of anything less than 767s. I've never been so close to so many 777, 747s, A330s, 767s, etc.

The 1.3 hour flight to Chitose (Sapporo) Airport on Hokkaido went well in a 747 and we were met there by two Japanese colleagues who helped us rent a car (111,000 yen for one month! - about 110 yen/USD), buy lunch, and drive to Sapporo proper. There they nailed down exactly where we were going and then took us out for supper.

Supper was the most exquisite of Japanese delicacies - no fugu (pufferfish). We had sashimi (raw fish only, no rice), cooked fish, sea weed salads, squid, tempura veggies and two shots of sake. This meal led me to one firm conclusion: sake hits me like a brick. As we stumbled home, we stopped in for some tea at the local Seicomart, then wobbled the way up to our room in the elevator and fell to sleep.

The next day, we drove down to the field area, stopping for lunch in a town called Urakawa. There I encountered the 'Asian Squatter' - a form of toilet favoured by the Japanese and other Asian nations. Those among you having travelled to other parts of Asia will have encountered them, but this was a first to me. As for its usage, I'll leave it to your imagination, but I am personally aware that you can, in fact, use them without fully removing your pants. However, if you ever encounter the long drop or outhouse style of Asian Squatter, do not, I say again, do not use it if there is not significant clearance between the deposit in the hold and the level of your delicate bottom. Trust me...

When you are travelling in Japan, you will have difficulty trying to find a place to eat. It's not that there aren't any places, it's just that you can't tell what constitutes a restaurant. They are hidden in alleyways, are peoples houses, typically don't have obvious storefronts, and all specialise in different dishes. There is often a raised platform of tatami, or rice mats, on which to sit, or there are tables to sit at.

The Japanese fellows that helped us out stayed with us for the first couple of days and to give you an idea of the kind of geologists I was working with, I think that this picture exemplifies their passions. Ryuo is on the left, Andy, my supervisor, in the middle and Hiro on the right. They are looking at bits of a rock type called peridotite, which is quarried nearby and is used frequently in making roads whether of gravel or asphalt. Heh...

Accessing the field area is along a stretch of coastline that the road closely follows. I leave you until the next installment with an idea of the drive every morning. The picture shows Apoi-dake in the Hidaka Mountain Belt. This was a mountain on the southwestern edge of the field area.

25 August 2006

Safe!

No bears to speak of, flights great (as always)... From Sapporo to Tokyo was a full 767-300 with myself and a black dude representing westerners. Tokyo to Melbourne was a shocking number of westerners, beside one of which I sat. He was from Winnipeg, but calls Melbourne home now. I figure that the accent he had is something like the one I may or may not acquire and I can expect ribbing accordingly!

When travelling to Japan bring with you: modesty for the onsens (Googling it is probably best); an adventurous palette because the Japanese know how to enjoy food and it is wonderful cuisine, unless you are a no-fish vegetarian or vegan. If you are, you can't travel in Japan unless you are fluent in Japanese: you will not be able to eat most dishes, take that as fair warning. A stomach for lots of rice because, well, because everything is rice - the food, the sleeping areas, the pillows, the sweets, the tea, etc., etc; a phrasebook; a taste for tea; lots of pocket change because there are vending machines everywhere; an appreciation of subtleness and the not-so subtle; expectation and knowledge about using an 'asian squatter' (another Googler, I should think); an adventurous spirit; ability to survive without technology if you are going into the country for a while - everyone has internet at home, so you won't find public terminals very commonly in the country; ability to distinguish grey from green - public telephones come in different varieties and only certain, grey-coloured telephone boxes work to call internationally - green ones are local only. A belt because after a month of gorging on the wonders of Japanese food, your clothes will slip off when you aren't looking (I'm down 3.5 kg - 7 lbs).

The Japanese are so very kind and friendly - I've had meals prepared or bought for me by five people, most of whom spoke very little english. They go out of their way to help you.

It is not the land of the sub-microcompact that I had expected. Most cars are like a Toyota Matrix or something simliar. The Japanese-only cars have alarmingly high head space, which is odd for a culture in which I proudly number among the average 'heighted'. The roads are comfortable, even if they do drive on the left. The speed limits are ludicrously low, and the Japanese know it so they drive 30 or 40 kms over the limit all the time - for example, highways are 50 km/h.

Anyway, pictures and stories on their way, just wanted to give a little bit of reading. Now, a moment of silence for poor Pluto, which was downgraded from full planet status. ... Okay, be back shortly.

K

05 August 2006

Backwoods.

Never thought you`d be able to describe Japan with that word, huh? Well, in the area of Hokkaido that I am in right now, there is no internet, no ATMs that work with international cards, and one phone that can dial internationally. Who`d have thought that the most technologically advanced country on Earth would be like this?

Got lucky on the trip I`m on now and have Internet for today, but I`m not expecting to have access again until the end of August.

Japan is amazing - lots of stories to tell. I think everyone should make a trip here at least once.

Miss you all and have yet to lose body mass to a bear...

The Accidental Tourist